I am frequently asked by patients whether they should exclusively use products without fragrances. The question cannot be answered with a clear yes or no. Therefore, I would like to delve deeper into this topic in this blog post.
What Are Fragrances Anyway?
In cosmetics, fragrances refer to all aromatic chemical compounds from the animal or plant kingdom, as well as all synthetically or semi-synthetically produced aromatic compounds.
Fortunately, animal fragrances are hardly used anymore these days. Examples from the past include ambergris (a substance from the digestive tract of sperm whales) or musk (a glandular secretion from musk deer). Plant-based fragrances are mostly essential oils or resins. Examples of synthetic and semi-synthetic fragrances are menthol, vanillin, or ethyl benzoate.
Why Are Fragrances Used in Cosmetic Products?
On one hand, fragrances in cosmetic products serve to enhance a scent or mask any potentially unpleasant natural odor of the formulation. On the other hand, they trigger certain positive feelings in us as consumers, which encourage us to make a purchase.
For example, we like it when a deodorant not only neutralizes unpleasant sweat odor but also smells ‘clean’. We smell products before deciding to buy them. I’m no exception – honestly, the main selection criterion for a shower gel for me, despite all skin-friendliness, is that it should smell good to put me in a good mood first thing in the morning. And I love the classic Nivea scent so much that when the brand actually released a perfume with the Nivea fragrance a few years ago, I actually bought it. (By the way, the exact composition of the Nivea scent is a closely guarded secret.)
How Can I Identify Fragrances in My Cosmetic Products?
In the list of ingredients of your care products, fragrances are usually summarized under the term ‘Parfum’ or ‘Fragrance’. Sometimes it also says ‘Aroma’ or ‘Flavour’. This is, strictly speaking, very intransparent, because these inconspicuous words can summarize several thousand different ingredients without having to list them individually. Unfortunately, this leaves the actual composition completely unclear for the end consumer.
Why Are Fragrances Problematic? - The Risk of Allergy
The reason is that many fragrances, including those of natural origin, can trigger allergies in sensitive individuals. After nickel, fragrances are the second most common triggers of so-called contact allergies. There are 26 fragrances that are particularly frequent triggers. For this reason, the EU Cosmetics Directive from 2003 states that these 26 fragrances must be listed separately on the packaging above a certain concentration and may not simply be subsumed under the collective term ‘Parfum’ or ‘Fragrance’.
The fragrances that must be declared are:
- Amyl cinnamal
- Anise alcohol
- Amylcinnamyl alcohol
- Benzyl benzoate
- Benzyl alcohol
- Benzyl cinnamate
- Benzyl salicylate
- Citronellol
- Cinnamyl alcohol
- Farnesol
- Cinnamal
- Hexyl cinnamal
- Citral Butylphenyl methylpropional
- Coumarin
- Limonene
- Eugenol
- Linalool
- Geraniol
- Methyl 2-octynoate
- Hydroxycitronellal
- Hexyl Cinnamal
- Alpha-isomethyl ionone
- Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde*
- Evernia prunastri extract
- Isoeugenol
- Evernia furfuracea extract
*) The fragrance ‘Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde’ is prohibited due to its sensitizing properties. From August 23, 2021, cosmetic products containing this prohibited substance may no longer be made available on the Union market.
The above-mentioned fragrances must be listed separately from the following concentrations:
From a concentration of 0.001% in products that remain on the skin, so-called leave-on products, including for example cream, body lotion, serum or foundation.
From a concentration of 0.01% in products that are washed off again, so-called rinse-off products, such as shower gel or hand soap.
Another Problem with Fragrances - Formation of Pigment Spots
In addition to the potential risk of allergies, some fragrances – and this particularly includes natural essential oils – can increase the photosensitivity of the skin and contribute to the formation of permanent unsightly pigment spots. Well-known examples of this are bergamot oil or lemon oil. Responsible for this are so-called furocoumarins. These are secondary plant substances that plants use to protect themselves against pathogens. Furocoumarins are extremely reactive chemical compounds that interact with human skin under the influence of UV radiation. They can cause both burn-like symptoms and hyperpigmentation (darkening of the skin).
Are Natural Fragrances Less Harmful?
As the above example shows, natural fragrances, especially essential oils, can also be problematic for sensitive skin types. Of the substances that must be declared according to EU regulations, almost half also occur in natural essential oils. Just because a fragrance occurs in nature does not mean that you cannot be allergic to it.
Do I Have to Avoid Fragrances?
As written at the beginning, this question cannot be answered with a simple yes or no. If you have no problems and the scent of your cosmetics brings you joy, there’s nothing wrong with continuing to use products that you tolerate well. For people with allergies and intolerances, as well as for children, products without fragrances are certainly not a bad alternative. Also, if you suddenly feel that you can’t tolerate certain care products, you should consider a contact allergy. If you suspect contact allergies, you should ask your doctor to refer you for an allergy test. Here, the most common contact allergens, including fragrances, can be tested. When it comes to sunscreens, I personally prefer fragrance-free products, because under intense UV radiation, the chemical structures of perfume substances can break down and therefore act phototoxically. And for many years, I’ve been applying my perfume to my hair or clothes instead of on my skin, as I can safely avoid unwanted pigment spots from a light reaction.
Stay Healthy
Your Dr. Ilieva